GOHAN LAB Ribs / Marmalade: the jam adds a subtle sweetness and a thick, tender meat glaze

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Editor’s Note: The theme of Gohan Lab is to help people prepare simple and tasty “gohan” (meals).

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The subtly sweet, fraying ribs are a delicious treat this season to come.

While the recipe may seem like it requires expertise as a cook, it is a simple dish where the meat is marinated, lightly pan-fried, and simmered.

The marinating step allows the flavor to seep into the thick meat. The marmalade in the marinade gives a subtle sweetness to the dish.

“The good thing about jam is that it has characteristics like aroma, sweetness, acidity and icing,” says Kuniaki Arima, the chef who oversaw the cooking aspect of the jam. recipe.

Another merit is that the jam allows us to use a variety of fruits regardless of the season. It’s also a great way to use jam that you opened but couldn’t finish.

Citrus jams are subtle adding flavor. The feel of a dish changes when a different jam is used. Why not add jam to your line of sweet seasonings?

Jam also works well with chicken or seafood. Apple jam was used for the marlin dish. By adding sake and ginger instead of wine and garlic, the dish turns out to be quite Japanese.

THE FIRST NATIONAL JAM PRODUCED IN THE MEIJI ERA

According to Masao Ida, executive director of Nihon Jamu Kogyo Kumiai, an association of jam makers in Japan, which oversaw the culinary science aspect of this week’s recipe, the jam was originally a preservative food that allowed people to taste seasonal fruits all year round. .

It is said that the first production of jam dates back to BC in Europe. It was first produced in Japan during the Meiji era (1868-1912).

While the strawberry jam presented to Emperor Meiji had a sugar content of 75 percent, those between 40 and 45 percent are said to be the mainstream today due to improved technologies and changes in tastes. people.

If you plan to make jam at home, it is best to use fruits in their peak season when their prices are modest. When you can not cook all the fruit you bought, sprinkle the rest of the sugar and freeze.

You can make jam later with color and flavor intact by thawing the fruit and simmering it. Jam is more likely to gel when the fruit is crushed before cooking.

BASIC COOKING METHOD

(Supervised by Kuniaki Arima in the cooking aspect and Masao Ida in the culinary science aspect)

* Ingredients (Serve four)

400 grams of ribs, for the marinade (80 grams of marmalade, 30 ml of soy sauce, 200 ml of white wine, 1 tablespoon of wine vinegar, 1/2 clove of grated garlic, a little chili) , 150 ml of water, 3 lightly boiled May Queen potatoes, 1/2 teaspoon of olive oil, a little black pepper

About 455 kcal and 1.4 grams of salt per serving

PHOTO A: Some ribs are sold in large sizes as shown on the left. In this case, let marinate for about half a day. (Photo by Masahiro Goda)

1. Start by preparing the ribs (PHOTO A). Combine marinade ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Marinate the ribs for 2 to 3 hours.

2. Heat the olive oil in a pan and place the ribs in it. Cook while turning to avoid scorching. When the ribs are lightly browned, add the potatoes cut into 2 to 4 equal parts. Add the water and marinade and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for about 10 minutes (PHOTO B).

3. Remove the lid and reduce until the liquid thickens (PHOTO C). Serve on a plate and sprinkle with black pepper.

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PHOTO B: Maintain the heat level where the bubbles slowly rise and envelop the ingredients. Try not to open the lid as this will lower the temperature. (Photo by Masahiro Goda)
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PHOTO C: Shake the pan and turn the ingredients from time to time so that they remain immersed in the sauce. Turn off the heat when a small amount of sauce remains. (Photo by Masahiro Goda)

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Kuniaki Arima is the chef-owner of Passo a Passo, an Italian restaurant in Fukagawa, Tokyo.

Masao Ida is the executive director of Nihon Jamu Kogyo Kumiai, an association of jam makers in Japan.

Tips for making baby back ribs with marmalade (Video by Masahiro Goda)

ARRANGE VERSION

Marlin simmered with apple jam (For two people)

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Marlin simmered with apple jam (Photo by Masahiro Goda)

Mix 80 grams of apple jam, 30 ml of soy sauce, 200 ml of sake, 1 tablespoon of wine vinegar, a little chili, 2 to 3 slices of ginger, 1/4 chopped onion in a bowl and mix well. Marinate 2 marlin fillets (about 200 grams in total) for about 30 minutes. Heat 1/2 teaspoon of olive oil in a saucepan and place the fillets in it. When they are lightly browned, add 150 ml of water and 1 turnip cut into 6 equally sized wedges. When the contents come to a boil, add the marinade and cover with foil. After simmering over medium heat for about 10 minutes, remove the foil. Increase the heat a little and reduce until the sauce thickens. Serve on a plate and sprinkle with black pepper.

KITCHEN SCIENCE

When the fruits are heated with sugar, water flows from the fruits due to the osmotic pressure. Pectin, a water soluble dietary fiber, flows at the same time. When pectin is heated with sugar and acid, it gels when cooled. When low-acid fruit needs to be made into jam, lemon juice is added to compensate for the acidity.

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The Asahi Shimbun

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Extract from the Gohan Lab section of the Asahi Shimbun

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