Timepieces with exceptional dials

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TAG HEUER

Introducing the new Tag Heuer Carrera Plasma, featuring synthetic diamonds created via chemical vapor deposition (CVD) technology. A major milestone in the more than 160-year history of watchmaking and the watch industry, the use of carbon material opens up another realm for endless creativity and design. The main highlight of this new watch is the specially created polycrystalline diamond dial, the dazzling effect of which is a sum of crystals that have been developed into a single piece of diamond. Two sub-dials each feature a black polycrystalline diamond plate, while each white gold index is set with a lab-grown diamond. Cast in lightweight sandblasted anodized aluminum, the 44mm case is adorned with 48 irregularly shaped lab-grown diamonds, as well as a 2.5-carat diamond crown. Equipped with the Tag Heuer Nanograph movement, the caliber carries the revolutionary in-house carbon hairspring, developed by the Tag Heuer Institute and powered by the same CVD method used on synthetic diamonds.

HERMES

A meeting between Hermès and the Swiss Center for Electronics and Microtechnology (CSEM) in Neuchâtel in 2018 gave birth to a project for a silicon wafer dial, which was to feature the designer-graphic designer’s intimate and refined Crépuscule (twilight) motif. Thanh-Phong Le. Typically used for manufacturing semiconductors, the silicon wafer of the Cape Cod Crépuscule quartz watch is chosen solely for its aesthetic qualities. The dial is created from a single 0.5mm thick plate, precisely coated with a tiny 72 nanometer silicon nitride film to achieve the desired intense blue hue. Next comes the photolithography step, during which the wafer is exposed to blue light to print the pattern. The process involves several baths before the gold plating step, followed by several baths to remove superfluous material. Finally, the plate is cut to the shape of the 29mm by 29mm steel case.

MORITZ GROSSMANN

The Glashütte manufactory revives the historic craftsmanship of tremblage with this anniversary model. Executed on a German silver dial base, the laborious and intricate engraving method involves the use of a range of chisels, or chisels, to create a fine, even grained texture. What’s also impressive is that the numerals, logo, minute track and seconds circle are embossed elements – not applied, created by hand removing German silver from the same base plate before the tremor process. Available in a 41mm case in stainless steel or rose gold, as shown here, the Tremblage watch with its exceptional dial is powered by the hand-wound caliber 100.1 which can be admired through the transparent back.

GRAND SEIKO

One of the five new Evolution 9 Spring Drive Collection sports watches is the SLGA015. Crafted from high-intensity titanium, the focal point of the 200m dive watch is its unique dial. The serious diver knows that the oceans surrounding the Japanese archipelago are criss-crossed by powerful water currents, such as the Kuroshio Current. Also known as the Black Stream, it flows north past Japan to the North Pacific and is also one of the largest ocean currents in the world. The dynamic tides caused by the Black Stream are the inspiration for the deep black hue and richly textured dial of this elegant 43.8mm model. Powered by the Spring Drive caliber 9RA5, it offers an accuracy of ±10 seconds per month and a power reserve of five days.

GUCCI

The G-Timeless Moonlight, shown here, adds a touch of refined fantasy to the house’s second fine watchmaking collection. The Gucci caliber GGV838.MP, an in-house movement, features a striking moon phase complication that shows two moons in their phases – from a delicate sliver to a luminous full moon – represented in rose and white gold. The watch with an exceptional dial is crafted from a remarkable natural meteorite, which is accented with sparkling planets and diamonds for the stars in the spinning celestial disk.

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